Author Topic: JWP2  (Read 13815 times)

Judy

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JWP2
« on: January 14, 2013, 02:57 PM »
Here is a JWP that I recently acquired from NEBG.  I've done the first thinning and wiring, it was a joy to work on.  Here are some photos before the work.  There was a bit of reduction that needed done, as there were multiple branches in some areas, and a couple bar branches to deal with.  I did try to angle the bottom right branch down with guy wire, but was largely unsuccessful.
 

Judy

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Re: JWP2
« Reply #1 on: January 14, 2013, 03:00 PM »
And some photos of after the work for this season. The tree is very healthy.

I have to add that after I took these photos, it was recommended to angle the branch tips up, which I have done, but I haven't taken another pic of it after...


 

John Kirby

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Re: JWP2
« Reply #2 on: January 15, 2013, 12:16 AM »
Nice, you have two very nice grafted white pines.

You really need to get that first branch down.  Pm if you want suggestions.

John
 

Adair M

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Re: JWP2
« Reply #3 on: January 15, 2013, 07:18 AM »
Judy,

I would strongly consider and followup on John's recommendations.
 

Judy

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Re: JWP2
« Reply #4 on: January 15, 2013, 09:26 AM »
Thanks for the offer John, PM sent.
 

bwaynef

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Re: JWP2
« Reply #5 on: January 15, 2013, 11:29 AM »
If its not too much trouble, post the suggestion here.
 

Chrisl

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Re: JWP2
« Reply #6 on: January 15, 2013, 12:02 PM »
Nice tree Judy!  You certainly have upped your game a bit lol  Very well done grafted too!
 

John Kirby

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Re: JWP2
« Reply #7 on: January 15, 2013, 03:42 PM »
OK, the first thing that you need to see is the nebari. the easiest way to make the initial change in the angle of the branch is to look at changing the planing angle, doesn't take much, that would also fix some of the issues of the top and how the top relates to the center of the base as it emerges from the soil. This might also mean shifting the front of the tree over 20-30 degrees or so the right, turning the tree to the left as it face you. So, that is a first step. It is also a fairly large branch that has a large paired (almost on same level) branch on the back and on the left. You need to anchor these branches to each other using large wire. In a perfect world a number 6 copper, but if you don't use that size copper, use the largest aluminum wire that you can- 6mm or so. The copper is best, even if you need to have strong friends come help apply it. Next step is to apply force using a fulcrum, right at the lower point of attachment of the branch to the trunk, actually yhe end of the lever will be approximately 1/2" or so from the trunk to give you clearance to move the lever. You can do this with either a heavy piece of rebar (not the thin stuff, or three pieces of thin rebar wired together one over two, or with a 1/2"" piece of iron pipe 2 feet long with holes drilled through it to hold anchoring wires, 1/2 ", 2" and 4-6" from end by trunk. Regardless, you then need to anchor a piece of copper wire (#8 or so) in the drain hole on the side of the tree with the branch you are bending. To do this, use pliers and bend an "L" shape at the end of the wire, slip the short leg of the L through the drain hole, essentially between the rootball and the pot. Once done, then bend the wire back over the bottom of the pot, then up the side and over the soil. At the end of the wire that is over the soil and below the branch, use two pairs of pliers, bend the end and form an eyelet (loop) with a couple of twists. This will serve as your guy wire anchor.

Wherever wood, pipe or rebar or wire come in contact with wood protect with rubber. So you now have your lever attached to branch, wired tightly to the branch/wire. You need to attach a guy wire through your copper loop- I would try 14 copper- so that it goes over the branch (place rubber between wire and branch)and over the lever (don't put the guy wire around the lever), cross the wire and twist with pliers until just tight.

The next step will take two people, very slowly put pressure on the end of the lever, be careful, you can put a huge amount of force on the joint. Start with a small amount of pressure and work up as needed. When the branch moves down, tighten the guy wire to hold in position. Check the top of the branch where it attaches to the trunk. It may (will?) crack and may tear a bit, this is why you limit the force you apply and go slow. Continue to add pressure with the lever, tighten the guy wire, check joint as needed until you have it at a more pleasing angle. If you will be changing the planting angle check in the context of repositioning.

When done. Make sure the guy wire is tighten, then cut the wires that hold the lever to the branch and use cut paste to seal the wound on the top of the branch.

Look forward to seeing it again.
 

Judy

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Re: JWP2
« Reply #8 on: January 15, 2013, 04:10 PM »
Wow John, thank you for all of that.  I will first take a look at that angling idea, the roots are good (better) to that side, so will work in my favor. 
I am not happy with that back bar branch, but feel the tree needs it, as I already cut off the more obvious left large branch off. 

I will read and re-read the bending till I really understand it.  When is the best time to do this type of heavy bending work on JWP's?

Thanks again!
 

John Kirby

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Re: JWP2
« Reply #9 on: January 15, 2013, 04:32 PM »
Judy,
You can do it now if you protect from freezing solid, or you can wait until late winter-early spring, before the tree starts to grow. It sounds complex, I am just trying to not omit any of the small details that make this work well (like the detail below)........

One other point, and this is something that you should do, on the side opposite from the big branch, cut a piece of 1x2 (or something like it) that will fit on top of the soil, between the internal edges (front to back) of the pot, an inch or so away from the base of the trunk. Using aluminum wire, wrap a couple of wires over the wood to secure it to the top of the soil and the pot- this will keep the tree from popping out of the pot if you place enough force on it to break the wires used to secure the tree in the pot. After the guy wire is set and the lever removed, you can remove this anchor assembly as well.
 

Chrisl

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Re: JWP2
« Reply #10 on: January 15, 2013, 05:38 PM »
Very well explained John, and the guy wire setup, and tree secure setup, are pretty darn inventive! 

I might add only Judy that you can also make the bend some, then allow to rest for hr or so, and then continue the bending process.  I've done this and it makes a noticeable difference.
 

Judy

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Re: JWP2
« Reply #11 on: January 15, 2013, 05:46 PM »
Yes very well described. You don't happen to have any photos of this process by chance? 

Thank you Too Chrisl!
 

John Kirby

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Re: JWP2
« Reply #12 on: January 15, 2013, 06:28 PM »
Judy,
I being the world's most forgetful photographer, I do not. Peter Tea has a similar approach, however hi is leaving the rebar on the tree, http://peterteabonsai.wordpress.com/2012/01/25/rebar-basic-on-black-pine/ . Not something that you want to do with the tree you have (leave the rebar on).

John
 

Chrisl

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Re: JWP2
« Reply #13 on: January 15, 2013, 06:50 PM »
Judy, there was a recent article documenting this very well in Bonsai Focus...sometime last yr. 
 

Judy

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Re: JWP2
« Reply #14 on: January 17, 2013, 07:42 AM »
Do you happen to know which issue Chrisl? 

I do have this in the cold greenhouse, and since it's on JBP roots, I keep it on the side where the roots never freeze solid.  I may wait till our very cold weather that we are to get next week is over... (so I don't freeze!)

Thanks again John.