This is a white pine that was recently repotted. It was imported in 2008. I noticed the new growth from the top was going dead. I am sure I lost the top, but I can see that the middle and bottom is pushing new growth (a relief!). My question is what cause the top growth to died? I was thinking maybe root rot, or some type of fungus? When I noticed the die back, I remove the cakes and have not fertilizer. I just recently water it with seaweed and B! Vitamin solution.

I figure if I lost the top I have a new apex right below the overhanging branch from the top. I can also make the dead branches into Jin and shari

I am in 9a zone (SF Eastbay) It does it hot, but not that hot. I have kept JWP with no problems out here, but I also have lost some few. I think it is fungus.

I know JWP like to be on the dryer side, so I usually allow it to dry out a bit before watering. Though it has been grafter on JBP, I still think it prefers to dry out a bit before watering.

One of my problems watering, is knowing when. For example, I have check the soil with chopsticks and sometimes my finger, at times it is hard to tell if it needs watering. Lately, I go but the weight of it. As most of my Pines are in Plastic training pot I can see the difference in weight when it drys out. For instance, when picking up the pot, as it drys out, the bottom stays heavy and the top lighter, when it needs watering the bottom tends to balance out with the top. Again, I don't if the method would work for the long run.

When checking the soil I try to get to an inch and see if it needs watering, but even with this method it can be tricky (for me). I guess that is why they call it the "Art of Watering"....

I thought it was fungus because when I  remove the died needles they were dried out even the new growth from the top were dry out not burned.

I was told on another forum to use Capton fungicide once or twice a year as a precaution. Don't if anyone here has used it in the matter.

It is done in Japanese mixture from large particles at the bottom to smaller ones at the top. The bottom has large hyuga rock and the middle is medium akadama,  and at the top is small akadama, red and black lava rock.

I usually water it with a water can or a water hose (shower).

I think the Japanese mixture is great, but great in Japan. I prefer to have a uniform mixture with the only exception of having large hyuga rocks at the bottom.

By the way, Thanks MastuBonsai for helping me. I had read some of your post and no doubt you have a lot knowledge of bonsai.

The soil was sifted, but you may right about holding a bit more water in the middle due to the med. Akadama.

I do water the foliage, by misting it when I water.

I don't have any other trees infected.

Interesting about the wire theory, I think you may be right about it. There is wire holding down the tree and it is coming across the the trunk, but the tree was repotted this spring so I don't if it makes a difference

John, usually the embedded wires leave a route for Phloem and Xylem to communicate up and down the trunk. The akadama layer in the middle is concerning. I would suggest looking up Bay Island Bonsai and seeing about joining and learning the fundamentals in a very positive environment. John

Actually no wire on the top, and I have not misted since I noticed the dry up needles.

Agreed, I will be joining Bay Island Bonsai, just need to work out my work schedule.

What do you think about using Captan fungicide?

You did the right thing by checking the roots. Judging by the photo the rest of the tree seems to be healthy, but one can never be too sure unless you're there. I think turning the dead apex into a jin will add more interest and character to the tree.

I personally think that akadama is too soft and breaks down too fast. Look for a medium like turface that holds water well, but has less dust and doesn't break down so quickly.