Author Topic: Shohin Japanese Maple  (Read 11239 times)

BonsaiEngineer1493

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Shohin Japanese Maple
« on: January 17, 2014, 06:32 PM »
Hey!

My shohin japanese maple just arrived today. I just raked the root ball and placed it into a deep pot. I like the base and the movement, but I do not like certain branches. Planning on removing a few. What do you guys think?
 

BonsaiEngineer1493

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Re: Shohin Japanese Maple
« Reply #1 on: January 17, 2014, 06:33 PM »
more pictures...
 

BonsaiEngineer1493

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Re: Shohin Japanese Maple
« Reply #2 on: January 17, 2014, 08:39 PM »
To be honest almost all the branches lack character. Would it be a good idea to get rid of all the branches?
 

jlushious

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Re: Shohin Japanese Maple
« Reply #3 on: January 17, 2014, 09:26 PM »
I'm no expert, but I agree. Some of the higher branches are thicker than the lower ones (it looks like).

I am pretty sure tridents can grow branches back relatively well. Al has a ton of experience with trident maples (his blog is here http://bonsaial.wordpress.com/trident-maples/) and it looks like has has chopped some of his down to just the trunk (and leaves a few well placed shoots/small branches) and re-grown the branch work.

He may have more insight, but if you're not happy, it's not impossible to fix with tridents - assuming you have time in your trees plan to re-grow!
 

Sorce

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Re: Shohin Japanese Maple
« Reply #4 on: January 18, 2014, 07:41 AM »
I'm no expert either, but yes, I agree too.

Very nice trunk line. However, It looks like it is trying to lose taper.

I would let the bottom branch run to keep the base fatter, and keep the apex open (half leaf pruned) as much as vigor allows (once or twice a season) to keep it in check.  knocking off any unwanted buds up top before they divert energy.

With properly scaled branches this is going to be a very sexy tree.

Nice!



 

Judy

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Re: Shohin Japanese Maple
« Reply #5 on: January 18, 2014, 08:39 AM »
I like this trunk ;)  Which picture is your "front"?  I would choose your first image...

I think that you'd want to keep at least one of the lower branches, as you have some nice thickness that would take a bit of time to regain in a pot.  You can cut it back and get more movement once it starts to regrow. I don't think that either of those lower branches are so bad where they start, you could make either of them work.  I would choose the left one to keep myself, I like where it emerges, and it does have a bit of a curve to start with. I would get rid of the right one soon, so that the scar won't be any larger.

 Also some of the top branch placements are fine, you'll just have to see which ones you can work (wire) and move.  The third (or second large) branch on the right toward the top with that nice curve to start out is a keeper for me as well, it just needs to be cut back and kept in check while the others catch up.  But placement and shape is nice.

Of course all of this is what I would do, not necessarily what you will want to do.  

I have a question about the size of the pot that it is in, how much room is there outside the original rootball?  I think that to develop this tree, you'll want to get it into a wider pot, don't think you need to go training box size, but something to give it room to run those roots and be vigorous for a few years.  
Just my thoughts.
 

BonsaiEngineer1493

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Re: Shohin Japanese Maple
« Reply #6 on: January 18, 2014, 10:34 AM »
Judy, It is hard for me to choose between the first and the third picture to be my front.

Yellow string - keeping
white string - considering

Lower branches, the yellow string branch is the thickest. It pretty much has a straight curving up movement. The white string branch has the best movement, but a pretty big scar and it would be a front branch if the first picture is my front. In addition, If I leave it will it still be considered a bar branch?

Upper branches, the yellow string branch has the best movement but the smallest thickness. The white/blue string branch is 2nd in thickness with a light scar. The white string branch is the thickest. I want to make a diagonal cut (red line) so it follows the first branch, which has appropriate movement and thickness.

The pot dimensions are H x W x L: 4 x 8 x 7. There was probably an inch or less between the pot and root ball. When should I transplant into a bigger pot?

I'm worried about the scars that are not sealed. Some of them are either dark blackish or light.

Do you guys like my decisions. In addition, when is the best time for branch removal. My best guess is when the buds are swelled up.
« Last Edit: January 18, 2014, 10:57 AM by BonsaiEngineer1493 »
 

BonsaiEngineer1493

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Re: Shohin Japanese Maple
« Reply #7 on: January 18, 2014, 10:36 AM »
More pictures...

 

Judy

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Re: Shohin Japanese Maple
« Reply #8 on: January 18, 2014, 11:36 AM »
Nick, could you please take photos of these colored branches straight on to the tree?  From the arial view it's really hard to tell what branch is which on the tree...

Yes I would give this tree more room... but that's just my opinion.

The old wounds you will have to re-wound and maybe even carve out a little.  There are probably threads here about healing wounds. If not I can link some.  You just have to open up the calus to get it started again.  Seal...
 

BonsaiEngineer1493

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Re: Shohin Japanese Maple
« Reply #9 on: January 18, 2014, 12:51 PM »
I did the transplant yesterday. I'm thinking about the an oval plastic training pot. When would be a good time to do the transplant?

If I have trouble finding information about healing wounds I will let you know.

I found an angle which would best suit a front view. I labeled it. Do you agree?
 

BonsaiEngineer1493

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Re: Shohin Japanese Maple
« Reply #10 on: January 18, 2014, 12:52 PM »
More pictures
 

Judy

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Re: Shohin Japanese Maple
« Reply #11 on: January 18, 2014, 01:58 PM »
You could repot now into the larger trainer, as there won't be any new roots to hurt.  Wire it in well. 

I like the first photo of this last set better, there is a large scar in your chosen front, and the tree looks like its moving away from that angle.
   One thing you should learn to do is to always look at the tree (and photograph it) from eye level.  Think across the pot not down into it.  You'll want to style it at this height as well.  I learned this lesson late, and wound up with stuff that didn't look as good at the correct viewing height as it did from slightly above, where I had styled it from. 

Which branches you keep will need to be determined after you determine your front in this case. 
 

BonsaiEngineer1493

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Re: Shohin Japanese Maple
« Reply #12 on: January 18, 2014, 02:24 PM »
Do you mean JM (9) or JM (13)?
 

Judy

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Re: Shohin Japanese Maple
« Reply #13 on: January 18, 2014, 02:26 PM »
9, looks like just a shift clockwise from #1?  If you do take more photos try also to get more light into the tree, so angles can be better seen
 

gaitano

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Re: Shohin Japanese Maple
« Reply #14 on: January 18, 2014, 04:51 PM »
I agree with Judy on #9.