Author Topic: hard pruned new Maple...  (Read 8037 times)

John Kirby

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Re: hard pruned new Maple...
« Reply #15 on: January 18, 2012, 07:58 PM »
You can do two airlayers if you like, they need to be at least 1/2 the diameter of the trunk (I believe this is rule of thumb not science based, but.....), you will need to get the sphagnum , rooting hormone, etc. I am going to do my maple at boon's in early March, I would suggest doing them when the buds start to swell and the tree starts getting the nice red buds. JOhn
 

nathanbs

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Re: hard pruned new Maple...
« Reply #16 on: January 18, 2012, 10:06 PM »
we are already getting bud swelling on a lot of species here in southern california. Im going to guess 2-3 weeks tops before jap maples are budding
 

Kajukid

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Re: hard pruned new Maple...
« Reply #17 on: January 18, 2012, 11:38 PM »
Thanks John. Yeah Boon said your going to be here in march. I'll be at the workshop on the 3rd. Boon said to do air layer in Feb.
 

John Kirby

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Re: hard pruned new Maple...
« Reply #18 on: January 19, 2012, 12:36 AM »
Yep, since I won't be able to get to Hayward before March, March it will have to be. Have fun with it, John
 

nathanbs

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Re: hard pruned new Maple...
« Reply #19 on: January 19, 2012, 10:08 AM »
it seems that there are mixed opinions on when it should be done anyhow. Some say early spring others say after leaves have hardened
 

John Kirby

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Re: hard pruned new Maple...
« Reply #20 on: January 19, 2012, 10:27 AM »
Nathan,
There are several approaches are possible, a consistently successful time to do this is at the time you would normally repot, at bud swelling This timing also gives the new roots the greatest period of growth before fall. I think te key thing is just to do it and then move on to development.
 

Chrisl

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Re: hard pruned new Maple...
« Reply #21 on: January 19, 2012, 01:59 PM »
One interesting thing I read the other day about air layering, evergreens in particular, but the process seems like it'd be good to try on any air layer.  And that was after removing all the cambium, use then either alcohol, or a torch on the hardwood to totally eliminate and cells you might have missed.  Then use gel, sph. moss as usual.  I'm going to try it on a red maple that didn't work this last year, and on a scots pine.