Species Specific > Japanese Black Pine Bonsai Discussion

JBP 1 - Where to from here.

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Hi Adair

Thanks so much for all that information. 

--- Quote from: Adair M on August 27, 2015, 10:33 PM ---The benefit of a single colander is. that when the extending root hits the edge of the colander, it encounters air. So, if stops extending, and backbuds new roots closer to the trunk. When roots hit the wall of a pot, they think they e hit a rock, and try to go around it. Thus circling the pot. So, the colander promotes a better root system by promoting root backbudding.

So, why double colander?  When the roots hit that first colander, they'll just squeeze through. No backbudding. It's not until the second colander wall is hit that the backbudding occurs. But it's most likely to occur between the colanders!  Not close to the trunk.

And later, you'll find that the only way to separate the tree from that first colander is to cut it off. Thus removing the backbudding!

The "double colander" is a flawed technique. Single colanders is the wa to go!

--- End quote ---

I have included the image of the article.  My understanding was that the thicker roots will not penetrate the colander and only push the finer roots through.  It is those finer roots that one wants that will assist with the rapid thickening of the trunk. 

Am I incorrect in this? This pine is very important to me as I have grown it from seed and want to make sure that I do the best for it.

I had a look at the JBP yesterday and I think I have a little pine cone growing.

Is this normal?  Should it be cut off or left?


the double colander - treat as a simple way to add more soil, without repotting.

Our Caribbean pine in the double colander grew even more and as Adair said, you have to cut the roots off to get back to the first
colander. In our case, we can leave the pine in the first colander add some more organic material to the top of the soil and the tree will grow new roots back along the lines of the air-pot system.

Ask about how to thicken the trunk, and keep shoots close to the trunk -> Adair.

Coming along nicely.
Good Day

Thanks so much for the feedback Anthony.

Hi Dorian,

Idk but it looks to me like those top 4 branches are going to suck up all the sap and those bottom branches are going to suffer for it(become weaker and leggier as time passes, may not be able to handle any shortening as is, worse later). Maybe reduce the number of branches in that top knuckle down to two or even one and use it as a sacrifice branch to thicken up the trunk. you may even get some back budding from branch removal as the sapflow is directed to the lower branches, feed the crap out of the tree and when those bottom branches look like they will be able to handle a pruning, cut off all spring growth to about 2mm from where it started. I do this on 16th of December each year to strong trees.

Best regards


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