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Author Topic: Black Pine Crown Reduction  (Read 1310 times)
jeffb
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« on: December 09, 2012, 02:14 AM »

I would like to reduce my Black Pine crown.  Any suggestions on branch removal, timing, etc?
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Dirk
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« Reply #1 on: December 09, 2012, 02:55 AM »

Jeff,

Nice tree!
he lower branches seem to be well developed.
maybe cut back just above the Branch with the label.
How tall is it?
Dick
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jeffb
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« Reply #2 on: December 09, 2012, 03:08 AM »

The tree is 28" tall.  I've read that early spring is the best time to do any major reduction.  I don't know if I could reduce the tree that much to start.
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John Kirby
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« Reply #3 on: December 09, 2012, 09:17 AM »

Well, you can do some pretty significant reductions of branches in winter as well. This could be a rather elegant, natural looking pine. But I would suggest that you wire the tree  to determine what you will actually need for an apex. Wire up fromthe bottom, lolok to where you need foliage to frame the crown, then reduce the largest branches first, leaving the smallest branches that you can effectively leave.  Make sense?

The other thing is that this treewill need to be repotted to get asense of how the roots are doing, and a good needle/bud management program implemented to get the foliage in scale. John
« Last Edit: December 09, 2012, 09:20 AM by John Kirby » Logged

jeffb
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« Reply #4 on: December 09, 2012, 11:13 AM »

Makes sense.  Most of my experience has been with heavily pruned yard trees.  My JBP bonsai knowledge is from mostly reading.  I read that you should only work on healthy JBPs and that branch reduction should be done over time.  Severe reduction without allowing for recovery time on older trees, as this one is, can be fatal. I read that you should reduce large trunks and/or branches gradually over a number of seasons so that the tree is able to adjust. This JBP was placed in a nursery container to gain strength.  I have pruned some old candles to get more light and air to help back bud but it seems to need additional pruning.  I read that needles also need to be plucked at this time to gain more light and air.   Regarding potting, I will check the root ball ... but I read that, ideally, repotting should be done in Feb-March - early spring before the buds begin to swell.  I'm just a little nervous ... don't want to loose an old tree.
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jeffb
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« Reply #5 on: December 09, 2012, 11:37 AM »

Also...I do want to get some back budding this spring and know I need to leave some greenery on the tree as well
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Adair M
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« Reply #6 on: December 09, 2012, 01:21 PM »

When you cut back, be sure to cut back to a live twig.  You must leave live needles on a branch for it to survive.

As long as the tree is vigorous, cutting back will stimulate back budding.  Also, fertilize.
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jeffb
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« Reply #7 on: December 09, 2012, 02:30 PM »

It makes sense to leave needles anywhere behind your cut.  I'm told that fertilizing in the winter with a 0-10-10 is a good idea to stimulate and strengthen the roots.  I'm in 9b zone.  Temperatures range from 30 to 70 during the winter.  When healthy I would like to start on my needle reduction through decandling, but have also read and seen on video that you can cut all the needles to the same size???
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Adair M
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« Reply #8 on: December 09, 2012, 04:10 PM »

The primary benefit of candle cutting is to increase ramifications and shorten internodes. Shorter needles is also a happy extra benefit.

As a general rule, it is poor practice to shorten needles by cutting them.   Sometimes I will cut needles when a backbud happens in spring, and the needles grow all summer. They will a lot longer than the summer candles, ill shorten them in the fall to keep everything consistent.
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John Kirby
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« Reply #9 on: December 10, 2012, 06:56 PM »

You asked, tou received an answer. You need to remove the too thick branches at the top. Now is a good time to prune and wire. You can do both now, then in march do the restorative repot. In 9b you can prune, wire the primary and secondary branches and repot on the same weekend. What do you think we were doing at Boon's this weekend? Just don't take all the needles or roots off. But you can read stuff that will tell you that you should take three years to do that.
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Don Blackmond
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« Reply #10 on: December 11, 2012, 09:19 AM »

You asked, tou received an answer. You need to remove the too thick branches at the top. Now is a good time to prune and wire. You can do both now, then in march do the restorative repot. In 9b you can prune, wire the primary and secondary branches and repot on the same weekend. What do you think we were doing at Boon's this weekend? Just don't take all the needles or roots off. But you can read stuff that will tell you that you should take three years to do that.

insert "two thumbs up" emoticon
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jeffb
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« Reply #11 on: December 11, 2012, 10:12 AM »

Thanks for the advice.  Looked up Boon's website as well ... seems that he is a neighbor of mine ... I'll will check his program
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John Kirby
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« Reply #12 on: December 11, 2012, 01:23 PM »

Now that is a very good idea. Join BIB, do a couple of meetings, do a repotting workshop with him and voila, you will be in good shape. His email will be slow for the next few days, too much going on, but he will respond. Tell him Kirby sent you, he will feel sorry for you. Really.
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Adair M
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« Reply #13 on: December 11, 2012, 02:04 PM »

Very true, John.  He felt sorry for me when I told him you sent me to him!
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Kajukid
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« Reply #14 on: December 12, 2012, 09:03 AM »

Boon told me that if your going to make lage cuts then do it in June for the Bay Area. Small cuts, anytime. I would repot first. But yeah listen to John and go see Boon. Boon will help. You can email him. There is a meeting in January
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