Barring that, I've taken pictures of what I've done and asked for feedback. I'll try to follow up with these trees at meaningful times and see how I've done.
On all of the trees you pictured, my thought is that you have a bulge, too much wood leaving a stump. For a couple, to clean up and heal to disappear, you have to take off the lower heal of the cut, making it more acute angle. I would go back an using a saw, re-cut most of your chops. Take off thin Wedge shaped piece for each, creating a sharper angle. For some you only have to take maybe 1/4 inch. For a couple, looks like you may have to take off more, but its hard to gauge size from photos.
Colin Lewis taught (if I remember correctly) to make sure there is no ridge or lip along the outer edges of the cut, there should be no ridge of wood to prevent the bark from rolling over to cover the wound. Second, leave a slight mound in the center of the wound. Slight is key, 1/8 inch is all that is needed, little more or less is not a problem. Just don't want a concave dish. Bark has a harder time closing a depression. He suggested taking a knife and removing any bark, take it back to green cambium, the rolling edge of the healing bark if it formed any hard dry mature bark. Want to keep the bark flowing, rolling over the scar. Carving yearly keeps the healing edge active. Apply cut past to rolling edge after re-wounding. Peter Tea's blog discusses this more completely. Also check Colin Lewis's website. It might be tucked in his articles there.
One analogy that comes to my (slightly defective) mind. You don't want the chop wound to have an outer edge like a meteorite crater. That lip of dead wood around the outer edge of the chop will create a barrier to healing. You do want the uprise toward center of the wound. The bark will flow up the slope quicker than filling a concave dish.
