Author Topic: Ikadabuki  (Read 3426 times)

tuberose

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Ikadabuki
« on: November 17, 2011, 03:58 PM »
I am in early stages of developing a sangokaku that I want to style as ikadabuki.
Does anyone have suggestions or advice as to where to source a proper container.
It needs to be approx 3' in length
Would also like advice on making one myself from wood or rock
any help would be appreciated
Thanks
 

bwaynef

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Re: Ikadabuki
« Reply #1 on: November 17, 2011, 06:23 PM »
What is an ikadabuki?

I'm all for Japanese names when they're commonly understood and more succinct than English.  Nebari, Jin, Shari, Tanuki.  Most folks with a reasonable exposure to bonsai know what those are.  I've been at this for several years now, and I haven't a clue what an ikadabuki is.
 

John Kirby

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Re: Ikadabuki
« Reply #2 on: November 17, 2011, 06:44 PM »
SInuous  root connected trees. Typically done by having all the branches come off one side of tree, laying trunk on side, root along the trunk, cut off old roots. Very visually pleasing if done well. In 'Merica we callem "rafts"

Cheers, Wayne try Google. I always love it when  a tech guy gets miffed about Jargon.  he, he, he
 

bwaynef

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Re: Ikadabuki
« Reply #3 on: November 18, 2011, 02:53 PM »
Had I used the old googler, I'd probably not have come back and updated this thread.  See this way, we've shared information.  Thanks John.
 

John Kirby

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Re: Ikadabuki
« Reply #4 on: November 18, 2011, 03:07 PM »
Wayne, it is a very rare day that I can get one on you.
 

MatsuBonsai

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Re: Ikadabuki
« Reply #5 on: November 18, 2011, 08:02 PM »
...and I think we all learned something today.   :)
 

bwaynef

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Re: Ikadabuki
« Reply #6 on: November 18, 2011, 11:15 PM »
...so.  Proper container anyone?
 

Owen Reich

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Re: Ikadabuki
« Reply #7 on: November 19, 2011, 06:50 AM »
Photos onogaishtokimasu (Kansaiben for "please take care of it for me")  :P.  Depending on the size and vigor of the root system and such, I'd go with a tall walled wooden box.  You can lay the trunk on the soil surface and hopefully (in Spring) rake out the roots and swing them under the former trunk.  I would reccomend exposing the cambium in small well spaced patches at surface level and paint with rooting hormone.  I would use Wood's Rooting Compound or something else with IBA or KIBA (Indolebuteric Acid). I think Wood's has NAA (Napthelacetic Acid) as well.  KIBA has an alcohol base and absorbs better.  I would not use Rootone as I feel it is unreliable and weak.  Rooting hormone may not even be needed but I like to be proactive instead of hoping for success.  You can cover the wound sites with chopped sphagnum moss and you should get roots to form nebari and eventually remove the old root system over time.  That a combo of how we get 'er done in the East and 'merica.