Author Topic: What I've Learned...  (Read 1186 times)

Chrisl

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What I've Learned...
« on: November 13, 2014, 11:30 AM »
I shared a bit of information about juni's I've learned from Ryan this last yr.  So I thought I'd post it here, and maybe others will share their information from their studies.  

To refresh my brain, I looked thru my notes; moss also helps immobilize the soil (mobile soil = no root growth), moisture loss buffer/= even water distribution along the water column/top to bottom of container, provides darkness for root dev., and lastly, protects Akadama from water breakdown. And yes, top layer replaced every 3 yrs. So remove, find active/viable roots, reapply top soil, redress w. spag/moss and repeat every 3yrs. Thanks for making me think this over again, I need to ask Ryan whether to remove moss before winter or not.

Quote from: wireme
Interesting fert results, I'd like to compare ingredients may lead to cheaper alternatives?
Man, Dr Earth's Life is only like $60 for 25# off Amazon. Even better is 40# for $10 more. I used 1-25# this yr. So it was dirt cheap given it lasts a whole growing season. (free shipping w. Prime too  )

Quote from: wireme
One of your comments I'd like to hear more on was regarding good design, I know you meant more than the old branch 1,2&3 and trunk ratios.

I wanna say, "Oh, good god"! Man, we spent I'd say about 8 lecture hrs alone, if not more, discussing design.

I'll give you a quick outline/approach:

1. Find attractive line in trunk, dw, branches... seeking a. Variety of angle b Variety of planes and c. diff. lengths.
Be objective and not obsessed with 'one' feature, but best of all features.
Once the interest has been determined, consider
1. Base
2. Trunkline/movement
3. Special factors: dw, shari, jin, hollows
4. Branching: Main branch (sashi edi) is the one furthest from the trunk...this and apex determines main flow.
5. Apex

Use all 3 to create guidelines objectively. First three above determines front.

Quote from: wireme
Also root reduction, rootwork, root pruning and repotting schedules of old collected conifers, that's a topic that would interest me a lot and has been difficult to research. I've thought about starting a thread, still might, might ask the goldfish first.
Damn, that's another weekend of lectures. I'll tackle one, juni scheduling.

Late Winter/Early Spring: Best time to style (OR repot). Preferable to stlye first, repot second b/c we want immediate new spring root growth..."stagnation = death"
When exactly? When color begins to change from winter bronzing showing new green growth. But, he stated emphatically, If tips are growing, TOO LATE as you then have an actively growing juni w. enormous compartmentalization capability. Which means the cambium is moving a ton of water = easy to separate cambium. So this is a great time to strip cambium for shari/dw work.

Spring -> Early Summer/July: No heavy structural work to due to loose cambium.

Later Summer/August: #1 time for Maintenance. Prune for refinement/strength allocation or structural pruning. #2 time for style/structural setting (defined as hardening off of l. vein)

Early Fall: 2nd best time for styling only. (can do fall repot if can prevent roots from freezing, but cautioned on it) Be sure to give ferts to achieve branch setting (you see the max burst in girth during the fall so watch for wire bite in...speaking of which...for juni's, remove when half buried), and help w. winter hardiness and to help w. spring push.

Before I say further, I again need to clarify fert timing w. Ryan as my notes are sketchy about this. So typing this all out not only is I hope helpful to you wireme, but also helps me fill in gaps. We cover so much material so quickly, it's easy to miss something.
« Last Edit: November 14, 2014, 10:44 AM by bsgModerator »
 

Adair M

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Re: What I've Learned...
« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2014, 08:14 PM »
Cool...

It's like drinking from a firehose, isn't it?
 

Chrisl

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Re: What I've Learned...
« Reply #2 on: November 14, 2014, 10:02 AM »
uh, Yes indeed!  Well put Adair! ;-)