Author Topic: Pruning cuttings  (Read 1490 times)

BonsaiEngineer1493

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Pruning cuttings
« on: December 16, 2014, 04:17 PM »
Hi,

I purchased several cuttings from Brent. For the winter I placed them in a cold frame with a heat mat below -heat mat is only turned on when the temperature drops under 30. The cold frame is miniature size, so a few cuttings had to be cut down - removing an inch or two. As a result, new leaders will form on the cuttings. How will these new leaders grow? will they still contribute growth to the trunk or only began thicken at the location of the cut; therefore encouraging reverse taper. When I browse forums and blogs I notice how a chop is made when the desired thickness of the trunk is achieved and a new leader initiatives. I'm just curious...My main goal is to grow some of them in the ground to develop thickness.

Happy Holidays,
Nick
« Last Edit: December 16, 2014, 04:21 PM by BonsaiEngineer1493 »
 

akeppler

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Re: Pruning cuttings
« Reply #1 on: December 16, 2014, 04:31 PM »
Cuttings of what?
 

BonsaiEngineer1493

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Re: Pruning cuttings
« Reply #2 on: December 16, 2014, 04:51 PM »
Trident Maples, Korean Hornbeam, Zelkova Serreta, and Cork bark elm

I did this when the majority of the leaves had already fallen.
 

akeppler

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Re: Pruning cuttings
« Reply #3 on: December 17, 2014, 12:09 AM »
I can't speak to all your cuttings, but as far as the tridents and the elms, make sure that whatever you decide to do, pots or ground, make sure you make a safety cut to induce backbudding. make sure you pick about three of the lowest buds on the trunk and use them to increase girth low. The lower the better, Do not prune it all year and stake it if necessary. Do not let any shoots grow to large above the lowest shoot, but keep them alive enough to keep the top alive. Just don't let them run.

Anything above the lowest third of the trunk will make reverse taper so keep those bottom shoots growing strong. Each new year in the spring spur prune the shoots to with in 1/2 inch of the trunk. Let the shoots that develop from the spurs go again the next year. Do this for about four years and you will then have the base built. After that it is time to build the subsequent sections of the tree with sacrifice shoots from those places on the tree.

I am currently working on an article for growing trunks for girth with many pictures and drawings. The drawings take time. The biggest mistake I see made are people that think you can grow a sacrifice from the middle of the tree to build a base, sorry, it don't work that way.
 

paulpash

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Re: Pruning cuttings
« Reply #4 on: December 18, 2014, 03:15 PM »
Hi Al,

Just to be clear on a few definitions from your last post

- a "safety cut" is a chop or severe prune just above the intended next section of the trunk, eg a small side branch that will form the new leader? A chop like this will stimulate buds down low that can be used as sacrifices later on.

"spur prune" - what is this? A spur is normally a small offshoot - do you have a pic of spur pruning?

Thanks for posting, your work on Tridents is superb.