Pages: [1]
Author Topic: Seiryu Japanese Maple project  (Read 1147 times)
hcboxster
Poster
*
Posts: 4
USDA Hardiness: Zone 6b

« on: February 23, 2013, 07:31 PM »

Am just starting in Bonsai, but I have been growing and propagating Japanese Maples for a few years. 

Bought this Seiryu JM a few years ago and planted it in one of my beds.  Noticed last year it had a pretty interesting base, so I dug it up and put into a grow box.

Was looking at it today and while there are a few things I really like about the base, I am not entirely satisfied with it. 

Regardless - posting some pics - any thoughts or ideas for a direction to go with it would be appreciated. 
Logged

hcboxster
Poster
*
Posts: 4
USDA Hardiness: Zone 6b

« Reply #1 on: February 23, 2013, 07:58 PM »

A better set of pictures of what I think is the most interesting view of the base,
Logged

paulpash
Jr. Forum Member
**
Posts: 63
USDA Hardiness: UK (wet a LOT of the time!) USDA 8b

« Reply #2 on: February 25, 2013, 05:52 PM »

I'd .....

1. reduce the longest root back as far as you can to smaller roots closer to the trunk

2. Air layer off the thickest of the two trunks to start inducing taper by pruning back to the thinnest of the two next year.

I think you could probably do both this year if you dig it up and sort out the minimal nebari work in the next few weeks as the buds are popping, then wait til the leaves harden off mid April and air layer.
Logged

paulpash
Jr. Forum Member
**
Posts: 63
USDA Hardiness: UK (wet a LOT of the time!) USDA 8b

« Reply #3 on: February 25, 2013, 05:56 PM »

Pic #1 looks the best front (pruning wound towards back & big knee root too under the cut paste). At some stage this big knee root needs addressing too but cutting back   or thread grafts.
Logged

hcboxster
Poster
*
Posts: 4
USDA Hardiness: Zone 6b

« Reply #4 on: February 25, 2013, 06:14 PM »

I'd .....

1. reduce the longest root back as far as you can to smaller roots closer to the trunk

2. Air layer off the thickest of the two trunks to start inducing taper by pruning back to the thinnest of the two next year.

I think you could probably do both this year if you dig it up and sort out the minimal nebari work in the next few weeks as the buds are popping, then wait til the leaves harden off mid April and air layer.

Your advice is much appreciated - thank you!  I was considering doing a trunk-chop right below the two paste-wound areas, but I think I have talked myself out of it.

Will plan to do the work you suggest as soon as I see good bud swell.  The tree has some beautiful foliage - will post pics of the work as I am doing it, and once the leaves come in.
Logged

hcboxster
Poster
*
Posts: 4
USDA Hardiness: Zone 6b

« Reply #5 on: February 25, 2013, 06:17 PM »

Pic #1 looks the best front (pruning wound towards back & big knee root too under the cut paste). At some stage this big knee root needs addressing too but cutting back   or thread grafts.

That knee root is definitely an eye-sore.  No problem doing thread-grafts -  I have a large number of 1-2 yr old JM seedlings from last year I can use.
Logged

Pages: [1]
Print
 
Jump to: