Author Topic: Cut paste for deciduous  (Read 3090 times)

Intriguedbybonsai

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Cut paste for deciduous
« on: March 16, 2012, 01:34 AM »
Is there a specific paste that you guys use? And how long should the paste be left onto the cut?
 

rockm

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Re: Cut paste for deciduous
« Reply #1 on: March 16, 2012, 09:10 AM »
Cut paste is mostly unecessary.
 

nathanbs

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Re: Cut paste for deciduous
« Reply #2 on: March 16, 2012, 09:36 AM »
i use wood glue unless its a huge wound then i use the clay cut paste
 

MatsuBonsai

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Re: Cut paste for deciduous
« Reply #3 on: March 16, 2012, 11:27 AM »
Green top cut paste, mostly. Orange glue-type for deciduous cut back in fall.
 

Chrisl

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Re: Cut paste for deciduous
« Reply #4 on: March 16, 2012, 11:42 AM »
What about this technique that you use Petroleum Jelly with foil over it?  Apparantly speeds up the healing process.
 

John Kirby

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Re: Cut paste for deciduous
« Reply #5 on: March 16, 2012, 02:25 PM »
I am trying a new type of cut paste, is inexpensive, is a latex joint compound type-A,  comes in multiple colors, so you can really freak your friends out. I figure if the Japanese guys do it (and they are always looking for shortcuts), I will too.
 

Yenling83

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Re: Cut paste for deciduous
« Reply #6 on: March 16, 2012, 02:53 PM »
John can you only buy this in Japan?  Also do they use this on Conifer as well?
 

John Kirby

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Re: Cut paste for deciduous
« Reply #7 on: March 16, 2012, 03:09 PM »
I have only seen it in a single Japanese Hardware Store- who know. Use on everything.
 

Zach Smith

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Re: Cut paste for deciduous
« Reply #8 on: March 17, 2012, 11:28 AM »
Is there a specific paste that you guys use? And how long should the paste be left onto the cut?
I use the green stuff that comes in a tube with the Japanese writing I can't read, for cuts > 1/2 inch.  The main thing I like about it is it keeps the wood moist where I make chops and this in turn makes it easier to cut and shape with knob cutters during the next growing season.  Now, this is for deciduous trees and Chinese privet, which comprise 95% of everything I grow.  With evergreen conifers I'd forgo it, figuring on jinning and otherwise carving the larger cuts.

Zach
 

Jay

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Re: Cut paste for deciduous
« Reply #9 on: March 18, 2012, 07:03 AM »
Chris, vasaline (and preparation H) is something that Nick Lenz had come up with. I think he was talking about Larch with these products.
Jay
 

Chrisl

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Re: Cut paste for deciduous
« Reply #10 on: March 18, 2012, 08:07 AM »
You're right Jay.  I read how Nick uses it on larches, but he didn't say not to use on other species so was just wondering?
 

Owen Reich

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Re: Cut paste for deciduous
« Reply #11 on: March 18, 2012, 10:51 AM »
Cut paste is always a fun debate....  Does it keep harmful microbes out?  Do the millions in the air land on the cut or get transferred by the tool then kept nice and comfy under the paste?  I quit contemplating it a long ago.  I've healed cuts with and without cut paste on a number of species and cuts covered heal faster and look better overall.  That's good enough for me.  It seems like the cut paste, liquid, colloid, etc is most beneficial for the healing process to start.  After that, who know if it needs to stay on?

We use the stuff that looks like grey bubble gum here for deciduous cuts from pea size to baseball size.  I personally like the Green Cap stuff and a piece of aluminum foil stuck onto it.  The warmth seems to heal the cut site well; faster is unknown.  But it works.  I've been seeing a lot more of something that looks like melted grey plastic on more Japanese maples lately.  I'll find out what it is.  I put the orange liquid type on confers when I crack conifer branches more than "planned".  It may just be to make me feel better.
 

Elliott

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Re: Cut paste for deciduous
« Reply #12 on: March 18, 2012, 11:53 AM »
I think it is important to use cut paste. What you use is probably not as important. anything from vaseline to aluminum foil electrical tape I see alot of the Asians using around here, all do the same, Protect the new cells that are forming from drying out and causing more die-back. If you have a small cut on a conifer in the growing season, or say a ficus, the tree will probably seal its own wound with sap/resin.
 The bacteria thing I don't know about. Seems like the more destructive bacteria are anaerobic, meaning they would actually thrive better in an environment that was sealed (anaerobic=without oxygen).