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Author Topic: Ponderosa From Burlap Bonanza  (Read 3692 times)
Chrisl
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« Reply #15 on: January 29, 2013, 09:46 AM »

Yes, burlapped.  I removed about 30-40% per Andy's recommendation.
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Jason E
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« Reply #16 on: January 29, 2013, 08:28 PM »

Cool, I could see it getting layed out to about 45 degrees, then one of your upper branches would be pointed up to make your crown and the bottom one tucked in underneath. If that makes sense?
 Have fun w/ it and post some pics after working. Wink
jason
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Chrisl
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« Reply #17 on: January 30, 2013, 12:06 AM »

That's pretty much the plan I was thinking too Jason.  Andy told me to style it this spring, and then repot again in 2015.  I already kept the box at an angle all summer long last yr., and will again this yr.  Should help getting it in a pot in 2 more yrs.

I'll post some pics after I style it.  This one is going to be done entirely by me.  I'm feeling more confident and feel it's time to try on my own. 
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Judy
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« Reply #18 on: January 30, 2013, 07:34 AM »

Good for you.  Just take your time, step away during the process, and take a break.  Come back and look with fresh eyes.  Works for me...
J
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bwaynef
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« Reply #19 on: January 30, 2013, 09:33 AM »

Have/would you consider(ed) a semi-cascade?

Wayne, no I haven't considered a semi cascade.  I didn't see that.  I'll play around with it more.

Here's a rough virt to show what I'm talking about.  I imagine there's a little movement there that I can't easily use in the virt, but I'd like it better if I could've rolled the tree ...on it's current axis, away from the viewer.  I think that would present nicely.  Also, I think the trunk should be compressed a little so that its not quite so long.

Regardless, here's a crude virt to give you an idea of what I see in this material.  (Potting it at that angle is an exercise for the ...owner. Smiley )
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Chrisl
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« Reply #20 on: January 30, 2013, 10:50 AM »

Thanks Judy, I sure will take my time!

Wayne, Not a bad virt.  But wouldn't it look better if if that first curve of the trunk goes upward instead of downward?
And I really agree, the tree needs to be compacted quite a bit.
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bwaynef
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« Reply #21 on: January 30, 2013, 10:59 AM »

Wayne, Not a bad virt.  But wouldn't it look better if if that first curve of the trunk goes upward instead of downward?

That's part of what I'd hope rolling it would do.
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Chrisl
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« Reply #22 on: January 30, 2013, 11:07 AM »

Ah!  Now I understand what you were saying lol  Not sure that's possible though...
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Leo in NE Illinois
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« Reply #23 on: February 16, 2013, 12:27 PM »

I had a thought. If you are not in a hurry, the trunk and most of the primary branches can be used, but the distance to the secondary branching is a bit long. Needles are long. What about grafting a shorter needled pine branches onto the ponderosa? If you had a stock plant around of the super short needled Japanese Black Pine cultivar. Or maybe P. sylvestris. I think P. mugo would also take, but there are issues working with mugo you might not want to take on. Heck, you could even graft on Japanese White pine. No reason not to try. Can you tell I took a grafting class last year? This week all bonsai issues look like they could be solved with grafting.  Grin

You will get some sparse back budding on wood less than a decade old with good fertilizing over a couple years, but rarely will the buds be exactly where you need them.

I have been warned to not work the Ponderosa's too hard until you are getting candles that turn into thick bushy fox tails of growth much like a JBP. If you are still getting only a few new whorls of needle bundles out of the new buds, the tree isn't established yet. Go gentle. My 100+ year old ponderosa  from Andy took a good 5 years to get rolling. Now it seems indestructible.

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Chrisl
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« Reply #24 on: February 16, 2013, 01:50 PM »

I had a thought. If you are not in a hurry, the trunk and most of the primary branches can be used, but the distance to the secondary branching is a bit long. Needles are long. What about grafting a shorter needled pine branches onto the ponderosa? If you had a stock plant around of the super short needled Japanese Black Pine cultivar. Or maybe P. sylvestris. I think P. mugo would also take, but there are issues working with mugo you might not want to take on. Heck, you could even graft on Japanese White pine. No reason not to try. Can you tell I took a grafting class last year? This week all bonsai issues look like they could be solved with grafting.  Grin

You will get some sparse back budding on wood less than a decade old with good fertilizing over a couple years, but rarely will the buds be exactly where you need them.

I have been warned to not work the Ponderosa's too hard until you are getting candles that turn into thick bushy fox tails of growth much like a JBP. If you are still getting only a few new whorls of needle bundles out of the new buds, the tree isn't established yet. Go gentle. My 100+ year old ponderosa  from Andy took a good 5 years to get rolling. Now it seems indestructible.



Hi Leo, and Thanks for chiming in.  I've got two Pondys now, this one and another styled for the first time last winter.  So I'm still at the very early stages of development.  I'm going to take a wait and see attitude re. finished needle length.  I maybe happy with the final reduction size on a tree this size, but the second smaller one might indeed need some other kind of needle to be convincing.  I just don't know yet, but feel there's no rush.  I've got yrs. of ramification work ahead of me.

This one Ponderosa has full tufted out candles, and tons of backbudding.  It's very established.  And all it got last yr. was very heavy feeding, hence the long needles.  I think my second one didn't do quite as well despite being in a pot 2 yrs longer is b/c it's in soil with broken down pumice and some sand too, I couldn't fertilize nearly as much as it retains way too much moisture.  I'm going to repot it out of it's 3g. nursery container to a small box while not touching the roots.  This spring, I'm just going to gently wash away the broken down substrate, situate the roots, and pot it up. 
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Chrisl
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« Reply #25 on: April 18, 2013, 06:10 PM »

Been out of country much of the spring, and multiple illnesses kept me having done little so far to my trees.  Though it's been really unusually cold here so trees are just starting off.  But anyway, I found these pine cone buds all over this Ponderosa.  I know I need to cut these off, but much do I need to remove?  Like, how close to the new candle?  I should've done this much earlier.

I was hoping to style it this earlier this spring, but alas.  I now just going to wait now till buds have set later this summer as there's ton's of new buds and backbuds I don't want to disturb. 
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John Kirby
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« Reply #26 on: April 18, 2013, 06:17 PM »

Take them off with your fingers. Really, a little twist and voila.
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Markyscott
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« Reply #27 on: April 18, 2013, 07:48 PM »

Ponderosa don't do too well in my area, so I'm not as familiar with them.  What you've photographed, however, looks like pollen buds to me.  I typically don't worry about those.  Just pull the cone buds - they should appear at the end of extending candles and are initially red or purple in color.

Scott
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Chrisl
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« Reply #28 on: April 19, 2013, 08:59 AM »

Thanks guys!  Easy enough!  So Thanks for the advice!!

Chris
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Chrisl
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« Reply #29 on: October 07, 2013, 10:19 AM »

Well, it took me over a wk, but I finally styled this pine.  To deal with the T branch, I wrapped raffia, copper splines, raffia, and no. 6 wire.  This and a 4' rebar and this bent like it was spaghetti lol  The wiring is much better done, but still looks messy in some areas.  Still need more work Wink  All I need now is to jin a branch or two to compliment the trunks shari.  Just not sure where/which branches.
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