Author Topic: First wiring of a big Bald Cypress (Read 5113 times)

johng · « **on:** July 05, 2009, 07:02 AM »

Hello all, Its almost a tradition now with me and my bonsai buddies that we work on BC on the July 4th weekend. Typically this work will involve defoliating and wiring. These trees have such a vigorous tendency for growth Gary Marchal has taught us that it is possible to wire twice in a season. I have only had this tree back in my collection for a year now. Last season I worked on trying to start a downward angle on the branches. Yesterday I decided it was time to give the branches their first wiring.

as always I am interested in your comments...

I just uploaded the video so it may take an hour so before it is available.
Thanks,
John

Heather Coste · « **Reply #1 on:** July 05, 2009, 09:13 AM »

This is an impressive piece of stock. Great taper, obviously very healthy, this will make a gorgeous tree in time. Where was this collected?

Dano · « **Reply #2 on:** July 05, 2009, 01:59 PM »

John,
Great cypress. This past weekend at The Bonsia Learning Center, Randy and I took some power tools and really tapered my tree nicely. When you recarve your tree, how much of the top do you plan on taking off?

Dano

johng · « **Reply #3 on:** July 05, 2009, 03:46 PM »

Quote from: Heather Hartman on July 05, 2009, 09:13 AM

This is an impressive piece of stock. Great taper, obviously very healthy, this will make a gorgeous tree in time. Where was this collected?

Its probably not as nice in person as it may look in pics but thanks. This tree was collected in the low country of South Carolina.

John

johng · « **Reply #4 on:** July 05, 2009, 03:56 PM »

Quote from: Dano on July 05, 2009, 01:59 PM

John,
Great cypress. This past weekend at The Bonsia Learning Center, Randy and I took some power tools and really tapered my tree nicely. When you recarve your tree, how much of the top do you plan on taking off?

Dano

To be perfectly honest I do not plan on keeping this tree so I have not really even considered how I might carve it. I figure I will let the next owner make those decisions. Until then, I will use the this tree to continue learning about the husbandry of Bald Cypress.

John

Gary Marchal · « **Reply #5 on:** July 08, 2009, 09:40 PM »

Hi John....

The Cypress looks good for just starting as a bonsai. The apex does need to be lowered and the branches need to have that bow taken out. If you plan on notching, I would notch the top of the branch at the trunk and continue the use of guy-wiring. Another thing I would recommend would be to put the Cypress in a larger mica container for training. The mica pot will be lighter to lift and will make up for the extra soil which will develop a larger root system which will speed up development. I would also raise the rootbase up in the pot so you can see the flare. If you keep working with the Big-uns, you'll have the scars (like I do) to prove it.

Best Always

Gary

johng · « **Reply #6 on:** July 10, 2009, 11:42 AM »

Hey Gary...thanks for the comments!! This tree was given to me with the pot...the tree and soil-level could be raised several inches. That ugly green pot must weigh 60-70lbs by itself. I agree that it needs to be in something a little lighter and easier to move around. I may just move it into mortar mixing container at the next repotting.

I have a question about what you suggested for notching the branch on top. I can see how a notch on the underneath of the branch could change the angle for the better, but I am not sure I understand how a notch on top of the branch would do the same....could you possible explain how this might work???

This tree already grows as fast or faster than any BC I have ever had...what kind of soil do you use during the development process???

As far as the scars go I am two and half months past shoulder surgery right now...3 reattachments:)

Thanks again for your thoughts and comments!
John

Quote from: Gary Marchal on July 08, 2009, 09:40 PM

Hi John....

The Cypress looks good for just starting as a bonsai. The apex does need to be lowered and the branches need to have that bow taken out. If you plan on notching, I would notch the top of the branch at the trunk and continue the use of guy-wiring. Another thing I would recommend would be to put the Cypress in a larger mica container for training. The mica pot will be lighter to lift and will make up for the extra soil which will develop a larger root system which will speed up development. I would also raise the rootbase up in the pot so you can see the flare. If you keep working with the Big-uns, you'll have the scars (like I do) to prove it.

Best Always

Gary

Gary Marchal · « **Reply #7 on:** July 10, 2009, 08:50 PM »

Quote from: johng on July 10, 2009, 11:42 AM

Hey Gary...thanks for the comments!! This tree was given to me with the pot...the tree and soil-level could be raised several inches. That ugly green pot must weigh 60-70lbs by itself. I agree that it needs to be in something a little lighter and easier to move around. I may just move it into mortar mixing container at the next repotting.

I have a question about what you suggested for notching the branch on top. I can see how a notch on the underneath of the branch could change the angle for the better, but I am not sure I understand how a notch on top of the branch would do the same....could you possible explain how this might work???

This tree already grows as fast or faster than any BC I have ever had...what kind of soil do you use during the development process???

As far as the scars go I am two and half months past shoulder surgery right now...3 reattachments:)

Thanks again for your thoughts and comments!
John

[/quote]

Hi John....

I've used mortar mixing containers in the past, but I've found them to be harder to move because of their flex which also disturbs the root system.

I've recommended notching the branch on top. I say this because when you notch the branch on the bottom you also are cutting the connection of the branch to the root system. This makes the branch struggle to survive during the time it may/or may not re-route it's vascular system. When you notch on the top you do not disturb your connection to the root system. I've seen in person some of John Naka's Black Pines that were notched on the top of branches and the branch was actually pulled downwards to the point of pulling a strip of the trunk bark with it...and the branch never missed a lick.

I use the same soil in development as in show quality bonsai.....1/2 aggregate (either Pumice or Colorado Red Lava)...1/2 Pine Bark Mulch (which has been sifted through a 1/4" mesh screen to remove the large pieces and through a 1/8" screen to remove the fine particles.)

3 Reattachment's

...You have me by 1....We'll have to get together and see each others scars

Best Always

Gary

johng · « **Reply #8 on:** July 13, 2009, 05:24 PM »

Quote

Hi John....

I've used mortar mixing containers in the past, but I've found them to be harder to move because of their flex which also disturbs the root system.

I've recommended notching the branch on top. I say this because when you notch the branch on the bottom you also are cutting the connection of the branch to the root system. This makes the branch struggle to survive during the time it may/or may not re-route it's vascular system. When you notch on the top you do not disturb your connection to the root system. I've seen in person some of John Naka's Black Pines that were notched on the top of branches and the branch was actually pulled downwards to the point of pulling a strip of the trunk bark with it...and the branch never missed a lick.

I use the same soil in development as in show quality bonsai.....1/2 aggregate (either Pumice or Colorado Red Lava)...1/2 Pine Bark Mulch (which has been sifted through a 1/4" mesh screen to remove the large pieces and through a 1/8" screen to remove the fine particles.)

3 Reattachment's ...You have me by 1....We'll have to get together and see each others scars

Best Always

Gary

Thanks for the explanation of the notching...it makes more sense now...more of a horticultural decision! Since this is pretty much my experimental tree anyhow I think I will try both methods. I will post pics soon. I would love to get together!

Thanks again,
John

johng · « **Reply #9 on:** July 26, 2009, 01:59 PM »

3 weeks out and she is coming back strong:)

John

Steven · « **Reply #10 on:** July 26, 2009, 02:26 PM »

Looking good John!

bwaynef · « **Reply #11 on:** July 22, 2010, 01:02 PM »

Quote from: johng on July 13, 2009, 05:24 PM

Quote
I've recommended notching the branch on top. I say this because when you notch the branch on the bottom you also are cutting the connection of the branch to the root system.... When you notch on the top you do not disturb your connection to the root system.

Gary[/font]

Since this is pretty much my experimental tree anyhow I think I will try both methods. I will post pics soon.
John

Did you get to try both notching methods? Which do you prefer? Do you have any pictures of the process/results?

Author Topic: First wiring of a big Bald Cypress (Read 5113 times)

johng

First wiring of a big Bald Cypress

Heather Coste

Re: First wiring of a big Bald Cypress

Dano

Re: First wiring of a big Bald Cypress

johng

Re: First wiring of a big Bald Cypress

johng

Re: First wiring of a big Bald Cypress

Gary Marchal

Re: First wiring of a big Bald Cypress

johng

Re: First wiring of a big Bald Cypress

Gary Marchal

Re: First wiring of a big Bald Cypress

johng

Re: First wiring of a big Bald Cypress

johng

Re: First wiring of a big Bald Cypress

Steven

Re: First wiring of a big Bald Cypress

bwaynef

Re: First wiring of a big Bald Cypress