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Author Topic: Shohin JBP in the making (approach grafting)  (Read 2696 times)
scottroxburgh
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« on: September 28, 2012, 08:37 PM »

I have not done approach grafting on pines before but I now have the perfect candidate for it.

What I am unsure of is if I have missed the window prior to spring growth for grafting in a new leader?
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scottroxburgh
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« Reply #1 on: September 28, 2012, 08:38 PM »

The planned graft.
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MatsuBonsai
John Callaway
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« Reply #2 on: September 28, 2012, 08:57 PM »

What are your springs like?  Looks like a good candidate to me.  And I see you previously selected a branch and moved it into place.  Nicely done.

Be sure to cut deep enough to avoid the graft pushing out.  Try to cut a trapezoidal shaped channel to allow the swelling/growth to lock the graft into place.



-----------------------       ----------------------------
                      /       \
                     /         \
                     -----------

                       (Trunk)

----------------------------------------------------------



How do you keep the soil in the pot, being upside down and all?
« Last Edit: September 28, 2012, 09:06 PM by MatsuBonsai » Logged

J

scottroxburgh
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« Reply #3 on: September 28, 2012, 09:11 PM »

Thanks John.

Springs are generally cool (we are still having frosts) but short, it heats up pretty quick into summer (high around 40c).

How do you keep the soil in the pot, being upside down and all?

We have a great form of netting that holds it all in place, you should try boiling an egg!
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jow
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« Reply #4 on: September 29, 2012, 01:12 AM »

Scott, it looks like you are almost a month behind us down here..... i think you are in the window now. Go for it.
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scottroxburgh
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« Reply #5 on: September 29, 2012, 01:56 AM »

Thanks for the advice all I tried my best to do the trapezoidal cut...it was very snug so I am pretty happy with what I ended up with for a first attempt.

I used gift wrapping ribbon to tie the donor branch in, if anyone is going to try approach grafting don't use it. It breaks under the pressure. I then used a cable tie over the top to get it really tight.

I also added a bit of sphagnum to the soil surface to increase the humidity around the graft, I guess it won't hurt?

Sorry for the poor phone pics, but if anyone has any advice on better technique or if I did something that could be improved on let me know for next time.

Also, would anyone have picked a different 'front', I thought the roots were best on this side but would like to hear other opinions?
« Last Edit: September 29, 2012, 02:12 AM by scottroxburgh » Logged

scottroxburgh
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« Reply #6 on: September 29, 2012, 01:58 AM »

More pics...
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scottroxburgh
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« Reply #7 on: September 29, 2012, 01:59 AM »

More pics...
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scottroxburgh
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« Reply #8 on: September 29, 2012, 02:01 AM »

Last ones...
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Adair M
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« Reply #9 on: September 29, 2012, 08:09 AM »

That looks nicely done!

Matsu,

Where does one get grafting ribbon?  I have a tree I'd like to do some grafts on next spring.  I have a knife.

Adair
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MatsuBonsai
John Callaway
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« Reply #10 on: September 29, 2012, 08:43 AM »

Don't forget to seal both ends with a putty or similar.

I usually use green floral tape.  For Peter's joint graft he suggests parafilm grafting tape.
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J

scottroxburgh
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« Reply #11 on: July 25, 2013, 07:57 PM »

I took the binding off to check last night, and it seems to be setting pretty well.

I'll rebind the area to prevent it from dislodging with this seasons growth.

I how long should I keep it bound for? Until the end of this season?

« Last Edit: July 25, 2013, 08:01 PM by scottroxburgh » Logged

Adair M
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« Reply #12 on: July 25, 2013, 08:49 PM »

Scott,

Once it starts growing this season, you can weaken the part before the graft by taking little "nibbles" off each side of the branch.  This will force the scion part to draw more of it's energy requirements from the trunk.
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