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Matsu Bonsai Study Group - Grafting for Bonsai

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MatsuBonsai:
This Saturday we met for a grafting workshop.  This was a good follow up to the Greater Louisville Bonsai Society Grafting Lecture and Demo by Chris Summers the week before.

We spent the day discussing grafting, adding branches to a problem JBP, and adding unusual JWP scions to JBP understock.

MatsuBonsai:
Tim W. watches as Tim B. works. 

Preparing the scion for the graft.  This was for the problem JBP, taking a scion from a strong section of the tree (apex) we were placing new branches lower on the trunk. 

MatsuBonsai:
Here is the JWP (Pinus parviflora 'Hagarumo') on JBP (Pinus thunbergii 'Mikawa') understock.

MatsuBonsai:
The grafts were done by cutting the scions into a sharp "V" with an elongated side with a sharp grafting knife.  The trunk/branch was sliced down with about a 45 degree angle with the knife or chisels.  The scion was then slid into the cut, long side towards the trunk/branch taking care to line up the cambium, and the scion securely fastened with tape.  The more contact the cambium has the better chance for success.

A small piece of white New Zealand sphagnum moss that had been soaking in water was placed in a small candy bag.  The bag containing the moss was then slide over top of the graft and tied on with the remainder of the tape.  The bag and the moistened moss will help keep the humidity up.  If, during summer, heat and direct sunlight become a problem, the tree can be rotated so that the graft is out of the sun, or blue painters tape can be applied to the outside of the bag to act as shade.

When the new bud extends and begins to touch the bag, a small hole will be cut in the bad so that the bud can extend.  By the end of the growing season I should be able to remove the bag completely.  I will, however, leave the tape for another year before finally removing.

John Kirby:
Sounds like intensive, but without Boon's laughing in the background......

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